10/20/03 Jumped right into the Bombay masala by taking the local trains.  Following concierge directions, took off the wrong way across the bridge, but happily since we found a large dhobiwallah community. 
Dhobiwallahs Mumbai [Bombay] India
Then asked directions for Mahalaxmi and inevitably it was ‘straight on then turn’ so once we got going in the right direction we did fine. Extremely hot, moist, high 90’s.    Eventually ended on the shore – looking out across low tide mudflats to the Haji Ali Mosque at the end of a long causeway.  Walked out, past vendor stalls and beggars [who seemed to be fed from a local restaurant].  Inside, a highly decorative shrine – mirrored walls, ceiling.  Pilgrims bring bags of food that are blessed by rubbing them on the catafalque’s shroud then return them.  Several of the older men are brushed with a feather duster.   At nearby Mahalaxmi Temple, similar setups with separate ways for ladies & gents.  Both end up at the shrine featuring 3 deities in an elaborate triptych, gilded and shining.  This time the offerings are given to two bare chested Brahmins, who present the offerings, extract certain items, and then return what’s left to the offerer. 

Haji Ali Mosque Mumbai [Bombay] India
mud flat cricket Mumbai [Bombay] India
Haji Ali Mosque Mumbai [Bombay] India
Haji Ali Mosque Mumbai [Bombay] India

Track life - workers spread out along tracks, none particularly busy.  Shanties -- wherever possible flats adjacent to tracks planted w vegetable gardens. Coconut palms, banana trees, others fill in. Backs of shanties line the tracks, often with a slow but fetid stream in the ditch between, yet see people doing morning ablutions or even collecting water to bring into their homes. On train someone always catching breeze at open doors - others doing business on mobile phones

10/23 Boat for Elephanta Island with early Siva caves.   We opted for the deluxe boat 100 but  can’t tell difference from other except  for the 20 R difference in fares.  Tankers, dredges, small wooden dhows crawl by.  Water very calm.  No photography allowed on the boat. Harbor has navy torpedo boats, missile frigates and helicopter aircraft carrier - possibly harriers   -large upthrusting curved prow superstructure on one side of bow,

10/24/03  Headed north today to try Kanderi Caves.  Got on express north to Borovili. Leaving train at last station, told to hold back --here the crush comes first as commuters jostle for space then we can walk off. Another short rickshaw ride [Audrey’s starting to think of excuses t o] get more rickshaw rides as they’re one the most interesting aspects.  At the gate to the NP| we’re told no rickshaws are allowed in [though later we see some] but they just happen to have a private car available for 900 R!  Two other Indians [and her Luxembourgian husband] show up and get much the same response.  Finally we decide against the 8 km walk to the caves, though it is only 90 today.  Walk around for awhile, then wind up at the lion safari bus --\ 30 R, pass thru Jurassic Park like double gates, up & down winding one lane road, then spot a white tiger that stretches for us.  Next set of gates, we find a pride of 5-6 lions asleep in the road, well positioned to allow tourist snapshots before the bus hustles them off the road.  Stop for some cheese pakoras and drinks then head back to the hotel via rickshaw/train.

Adishwar Jain Temple